« October 2009 | Main | January 2010 »

December 31, 2009

Lumb of God

lumbofgod.JPG

Last night after watching the sunset over Lake Tanganyika while the hippos splashed in the shallow water near the rushes, we headed to Botanika for some dinner. The restaurant is a little garden oasis, off Bujumbura's busy streets. The Executive Director of Village Health Works had arrived in town and we took this opportunity to welcome her and hear more about the project. I was excited to try the mukeke, a local dish of fish from the lake. But they were all out so we all found delicious alternatives. No one ordered the lumb.

December 30, 2009

BujumBond

Bujairport.jpg

I arrived at the Bujumbura airport a little after midnight last night. The airport is beautiful. A Beaux Arts collection of domes that is a worthy location for the next Bond flick. Can't you see the Bond girl being rescued from the top of the dome?

Bujairport inter.jpg

The Airline Food Report

airport wait.JPG
Flight delays at JFK

People have come to expect an airline food update from me, so here it is. I may be one of the only people on the planet who looks forward to a good airline meal. But this time, KLM airlines let me down with their mile-high kitchen.

KLM had two different opportunities to impress me - NYC-Amsterdam and Amsterdam-Nairobi, but neither will be remembered in the catalog of great airline meals. "Dinner" on the flight from NYC to Amsterdam was a serving of a sweet, boggy red goo slathered over what they called "chicken." I drank my mediocre red wine and lavished in the impossibly abundant leg room of the exit row.

Unbelievably, the Amsterdam to Nairobi leg saw a decline. The "sesame noodle salad" was composed of mushy noodles and tasted like it had been sitting in a can since before the start of the Cold War. While the entree was equally inedible, it did present a curious first for me. Next to yet another "chicken" dish with sugary red sauce was a heap of reconstituted potatoes. Nothing unusual here. But when I scooped in to try what would be my only bite of the dish, my fork struck skin. Potato skin. A bit confounded, I began to wonder, a. are these reconstituted potato skins or b. did someone actually cook a real red potato, peel off the skin and add it to the reconstituted potatoes. Or c. Maybe these potatoes aren't reconstituted at all. Maybe they were just prepared in a way that makes them tasteas though they are. Food for thought. When the kind KLM steward came around with cardboard packs of ice cream, I forgave them.

Kenya Airway's chicken was surprisingly delicious. It was a blend of rice and raisins, cinnamon and pepper. It actually tasted like, er, food.

In the greater scheme of things I have nothing to complain about. I arrived at my final destination on time. My luggage arrived. I was given my visa, even though it was after midnight. But that's the point. I like airplane food. I don't usually complain, so I'm irritated to find myself in this unusual position where I am.

December 28, 2009

Tomorrow

winteryard.JPG

Tomorrow evening I will bid winter adieu. In what is becoming my annual escape from snow, salt stains and slush, I will board a plane that will take me first to Amsterdam, then to Nairobi. The final leg will deposit me south of the equator in Bujumbura, Burundi. I will land just after midnight on the second to last night of the decade and will spend the next two weeks producing a story about Village Health Works, an innovative health clinic that is providing more than health services to the community.

While the United States, one of the world's richest nations is debating how to reform health care, I travel to Kigutu, two hours south of Burundi's capital to a hilltop overlooking Lake Tanganyika. There I will find out what lessons we can learn in one of the poorest nations.




follow lanesisland at http://twitter.com