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February 29, 2008

Kibuye Sunrise

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Kibuye sunrise

Our four-day marathon of 20-hour shoot days culminated in Kibuye -- one of the most beautiful places that I've been in Rwanda. We stayed at the Bethanie Hotel, right on Lake Kivu. We woke up early on Friday morning to tape the sun's rise up over the mountains that border the shore.

While the sun was still hidden and the sky remained dark, we scouted the property of our hotel looking for the perfect vantage point to capture the "magic hour."

We noticed that the door to a beautiful Italianate building on the hotel property was ajar. We approached the door and cautiously peered inside. The building didn't seem to be occupied so we walked in, following a dark hallway to another door. As the first light of the day glowed at the horizon line we opened another door which led to a balcony. We couldn't have asked for a better seat to watch the sun come up.

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February 24, 2008

Typing Masters & Their Keyboard Cake

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two of my favorite typists

In Kigali, I'm living in the Voices of Rwanda House. During the day our living room is transformed into an office where a team of typists transcribe and translate video testimonies of Rwandans. VOR is an NGO committed to recording oral history as a form of transitional justice and as an effort to preserve the history of individuals and in effect, a country. Eventually, the video database will be used to educate high school students in the U.S. and around the world about genocide.

When the executive director, Taylor Krauss was starting the organization he arrived in Kigali expecting he would have no problem enlisting a team of typists to transcribe the interviews he was taping. He was wrong, but he turned this deficit into an opportunity -- an opportunity for himself and for Rwandans. In collaboration with a technology school in Kigali called E-ICT, he started a 6-week touch typing course to create a body of potential transcribers.

Yesterday, at the house we held a graduation ceremony to celebrate the first class to graduate from the typing certificate program. All the students graduated with distinction and many of the students already have found jobs. Several students are currently employed by VOR.

Inspired both by the students and the Krauss's efforts, I'm producing a documentary short called "TypingMaster 10-Finger Touch Typing," about the typists -- many who are orphans and survivors of the 1994 genocide and each with a big dream about where typing will take them.

My contribution to the graduation ceremony itself was as the executive in charge of decorating and as the chef on the dessert committee. Here is a photo of the cupcakes I made and assembled to resemble a keyboard.

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The night ended with a game that is the Rwandan equivalent of Secret Santa, called cacahouette. Everybody draws a name of a person at the party and in two weeks (the night before I depart) we will all convene and give a gift to the person whose name was drawn. The intention of the game is to create an opportunity so that the relationship which started at the party continues on.

For more photos from the night continue reading...

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February 21, 2008

Framboise in Super Foam

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We are throwing a party tomorrow night at our house and I have volunteered to bake a cake. Cake ingredients here are easy to find if you know where to shop. I made an excursion to La Galette, a German butcher that has hard-to-find ingredients like pure cocoa powder and confectioners sugar.

As I was leaving with my bundle of groceries a man approached me. He was carrying a bucket that once carried clothing detergent but today was filled with freshly picked framboise. Actually, they looked more like the jelly candied framboise than proper raspberries and they tasted like a cross between a strawberry and a raspberry.

When I brought them back to the house, one of the Rwandese women who works here said she used to pick them as a girl but hasn’t seen them since.

My local saucisson

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I awoke yesterday morning to discover that while our pantry was stocked with the delicious Rwanda coffee beans ready for percolating, the refrigerator was without milk. I took a stroll up the dirt road to my local “bodega” to stock up on a box of the stuff. While I was there a delivery of fresh sausage links arrived. Of course I had to try one.

Yesterday, I had a tapas style lunch of sausage, cheese, bread and olives. It’s been a nice departure from the brochettes et frites which have become a staple in my diet.

Actual Crowds for Bush

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On Tuesday, George Bush arrived to spend 10 hours on Rwandan soil. We were taping students who traveled from the University to Kigali to cover Bush-related stories for their university radio station and print publication.

The students did vox pop interviews, asking people on the street what they thought of the Bush visit. Other students worked on stories about how the president’s visit will influence education and prevention of malaria and HIV/AIDS in Rwanda.

But my favorite story of the day is one my roommate told me. A Rwandan was asked whether or not he likes George Bush and if so, why he does. The man said he likes George Bush very much. The reason: “because of all the money that Rwanda gets from the Clinton Foundation.”

It was a great day for all and I think it gave the students a sense of all the running around that is a required of journalists.

February 18, 2008

Mayonnaise

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Rwandan Mayonnaise

One of my favorite guilty pleasures is eating french fries that have been deep-dipped into a pot of mayonnaise. In Rwanda, french fries come with nearly every meal so this decadent indulgence is fast becoming habitual.

In most countries the frite would be the highlighted ingredient -- made better only with the richness of the greasy condiment. But in Rwanda the mayonnaise is so good that the frite is merely a vehicle by which to transport the spread from bowl to mouth. The mayonnaise here tastes lightly of lemon -- hollandaise sauce's close cousin. The rich buttery yellow comes from the dark orange yolks. The slight crust that builds around the edges is worthy of its own name. I'll even admit that I've been caught scraping off the congealed build up and devouring it as a delicacy as rich as fois gras.

Why is the mayonnaise so delicious in Rwanda? It's a question I have asked all the waiters and chefs I've encountered. No one knows the secret, but I have my theories. As with all things delicious, ingredients is key. After oil, the main element in mayonnaise is the egg.

There are choices when buying eggs in Rwanda. All are small -- two sizes larger than a quail egg, one size smaller than the Grade A Extra Large egg found in America. The choice comes with color. Brown eggs come from chickens that are fed fish feed. The resulting yolk is a pale white color, basically albino cholesterol. The white eggs are an entirely different entity altogether. They contain the yolks used for Rwanda's amazing mayonnaise. Occupying the majority of the space inside the white egg shell is a dark orange yolk sunnier and denser than the flesh of a pumpkin. It is the egg flavor and a hint of the native lemons that punches through the oil and sets this mayonnaise apart.

It's clear that the mayonnaise here hasn't been pasteurized and warm mayonnaise is quite common -- evidence that it has never seen refrigeration of any kind. In this way, perhaps I'm tempting fate. But considering all that I've eaten thus far, it's impressive that my stomach remains content and without incident.

February 17, 2008

Church & a Run

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new Rwanda for Jesus church

This morning we got up early to follow a student working on a story about a new evangelical church outside of Butare.

The service was held in a skeleton of a building with dirt floors and a holy tin roof (pun alert) at the top of a long hill. There were no crosses, no bibles or church programs, but there was a keyboard, amp and an old IBM computer from the mid-90s set up on a table with extension cords running through the banana trees to god knows where. Since the "church" has no doors to lock, the usher's job is to haul the equipment to the building every week.

It was a typical evangelical service -- complete with tongue talkers, praise & worship music, dancing and personal testimonies about being saved. It's a great story to follow since Evangelicalism is such a huge part of the culture here.

This afternoon my cameraman and I did an 1 hour 15 minute run through the countryside just outside of Butare. We ran past marshes where rice grows, through rural villages, up and down hills, racing against the impending darkness. We ran out for 30 minutes, then reached a village, hugged a couple of kids for good luck and then turned back. Children who had seen us run by earlier joined us for a portion of the return trip in what became a brief impromptu running club. At one point we had about 25 kids trailing us, many of them barefoot.

The run home offered a breathtaking view of the distant mountains. And if nothing else we can count the trip as a location scout for beauty shots. We'll definitely return to film the beautiful sunset and distant misty mountains.

Tee Shirts

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Darth Maul sweatshirt

With all the missionaries running around here it is inevitable that tee-shirts donated by well meaning Christians in the States would wind up on the backs of Rwandans. There seems to be an endless number of tee shirts created for church barbecues or the one I saw today that said "Westwood Baptist Church Summer Hummer." I'm not sure what a hummer is in the context of a Baptist Church, but I'd love to find out.

The fun is also in spotting tee shirts designed for a very specific population, but worn by someone outside the intended demographic -- like the teenage girl with the "World's Best Grandfather" tee.

February 16, 2008

Rwandan Valentines

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Rwandan Valentine's Day Card

Valentine's Day isn't that big of a deal here in Rwanda. Despite this, stationary shops in Butare offer a plethora of choices when it comes to Valentine's Day cards. They were so delightfully over-the-top that my cameraman and I each bought two. In about three weeks our sweethearts will receive evidence of our love in a combined effort of the U.S. and Rwandan postal service (and all the post offices in between).

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Butare Rain

I am sitting in my Butare hotel room overlooking the garden courtyard. The rain is pinging loudly against the tin roof above me -- a sound I welcome today as I doze off for a lazy afternoon nap. However, earlier this week I was cursing the ubiquitious tin roofs of Rwanda and the music of the rainy season.

Finding a location to film interviews is a challenge anywhere you go. It requires a large quiet space that can be lit dramatically, has electricity and is more or less accessible to all parties involved.

Last Thursday, we went to a rural village outside of Nyamata to film some interviews. We managed to locate a large room at a conference center that was removed from the noisy road, had a multitude of working electrical outlets (fingers remained crossed that it would stay that way given the frequent power outages) and there was even a cafe nearby and a nice waitress who delivered chilled water on a platter.

When we "took a listen" to the room the sun was shining. But when the interview began, it wasn't long before we became aware of the roof above us. The rain started and was so loud against the corrugated tin that despite the sensitive microphones, we could barely hear the words of the person we were interviewing.

We waited for ten minutes until the rain subsided and had to pause again for the Muslim call to worship broadcast over a loudspeaker down the street. We got a few hours of clear interview sound, but as the sun began to set, the cicadas announced themselves. Any other day I would have welcomed their chirping. I think the location goes on record as being the noisiest I've ever experienced...and I usually shoot interviews in one of the noisiest cities in the world: NYC.

February 15, 2008

Ryeru Song


While I waited for my cameraman to finish up the shooting he was doing in a rural home outside of Nyamata, I was serenaded by these children with a song they had learned in church.

A lovely Valentine's Day treat even though I was apart from my Valentine.


February 12, 2008

A Balancing Act


Throughout Rwanda it's quite common to see people, primarily women, carrying items on their heads. This leaves their hands free for other tasks. Yesterday, on our drive from Kigali to Butare on the Volcano bus there were storm clouds overhead, so it made perfect sense when we drove past a woman carrying her closed umbrella on her head. I've asked around to find out the most unusual or unexpected items that have been spotted on women's heads throughout this country. Here are the results:

Cornucopias of bananas and other fruit are quite common as are bundles of eucalyptus tree branches. Less common, and therefore quite exciting to spot on heads are 20' 2x4s, 20 kilogram jugs of water, a coke salesman carrying a crate of bottles; square of wood with a pile of fish; a pepper grinder; a backpack.

With many bags to carry, I decided that I needed some training so that I could carry extra luggage on my head. I gathered together a team of trained balancing professionals (read mockers) to guide me in my balancing training. They told me as a woman I should be a natural. As you will see in this video, I am not. Unfortunately, I don't think I'm going to be hands or back free for a while. I think I need some more practice before going public.

Butare Birthday Party

We’re back in Butare. Last night we got the rare opportunity to visit the home of one of the students we’ve been spending time with. It was her 20th birthday.

We drove a short distance out of downtown Butare to a suburb called Tumba. The sun had set and except for dimly lit storefronts the space around us was devoid of light. We bumped along an eroded road and pulled up at the birthday party house. We entered at a bamboo gate and walked down a short dirt path to the porch and into a concrete L-shaped room lined with benches and couches where party guests sat as if shy 7th graders at a dance – looking straight ahead and not talking. We were greeted at the door by a beautifully regal woman in a pink and white traditional dress and were ushered to available seats on a couch in a corner.

For a few minutes we sat quietly exchanging a few words in kinyarwanda with the other guests. A little boy came over and showed me that by folding his foldy-cube toy he could display a variety of bible scenes. A young man and woman came around with a wooden crate filled with glass bottles of Fanta and Coke for us.

Apparently, they were waiting for our arrival because shortly after we sat down, the birthday girl's mother stood up and welcomed everyone, taking time to introduce each group and asking them to stand. There were church friends, neighbors, family and members of Rwanda for Jesus. We were introduced as the Americans.

A student translated for me as the introduction led into an expressive recount of the day that her daughter was born 20 years ago. It was really moving and clear what pride and love this mother has for her daughter -- and so wonderful to have the stories told reflect what we were in fact there to celebrate: the story of a person's arrival in the world.

Then big plates heaped with food were brought out -- a real feast of cassava leaves (which tastes a lot like sag paneer), fried irish potatoes, buttery rice and stewy beef. Then cubes of birthday cake were passed around in a basket. It all tasted so good.

Singing, clapping, more stories followed and then guests paraded up to present their gifts. Her brother re-gifted a stuffed animal with a missing eye. A fellow student gave a bag of popcorn and a carton of milk. We gave her a bottle of perfume called Passion -- I think the imitation version of CK's Obsession.

It was a real treat of a night.

February 08, 2008

The Saloons of Rwanda

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Forget Spaghetti Westerns. With all the Hair and Nail Saloons in this country, Rwanda is the perfect place to stage a Western. Hollywood, are you out there? Oh, and this little photo gallery is only the beginning. I snapped these five images within a 1 km radius in the Kigali suburb of Remara. There will be many more photos like this to come.

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Regional Cheeses of Rwanda

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Yesterday, I woke up early to go to Nyamata - a town about twenty minutes outside of Kigali to pre-interview some people I may potentially film.

Before leaving Kigali I asked Papa Fred to stop the car at a market so I could buy us a round of water. He pulled over at a shop just down the road from Car Wash (which as its name suggests is a place to get your car washed. But it's also a watering hole where you can lounge and enjoy a nice cold Mutzig beer).

When I went to the counter to pay for my water, I noticed two refrigerators behind the cashier. Both were filled with creamy wheels of cheeses. Each shelf was labeled with a different region of Rwanda. Who knew that Rwanda has regional cheeses? I'll have to have a cheese tasting party. The only problem is even though the cheeses come from different regions of Rwanda, they all look the same.

I'll have to ask our cook, Matilde about her regional cheese preferences. Maybe she'll even tell me which cheese she uses in that delicious cheese and eggplant casserole she makes.

Poulet Froid

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view from Butare hotel balcony

I’m feeling exhilarated after spending two days with the students at the National University. And the Butare visit was fruitful in more ways than one. A teacher gave me some really beautiful music by a Rwandese musician called: Inyarwanda. It sad and beautiful – reminds me of an acoustic African Low – for those familiar with the band Low.

The day was long, but rewarding. By the time we had a chance to check our email at an internet café where the bandwidth was so small that it took a half an hour to load a three line email in my old yahoo account (my gmail wouldn’t even open) there were limited dining options.

We headed to Hotel Ibis, the only place where two people could get a hot meal at that hour of the night. But even Ibis was preparing to close. The grumbling in our stomachs overpowered politeness and we insisted we would eat anything: eggs for tomorrow’s petit dejeuner, bread, cold frites, anything. Our waiter went into the kitchen to see what could be done. Apparently the spaghetti and meatballs hadn’t been particularly popular with diners that night because he came back and offered us poulet (meatballs). Not spaghetti. Not sauce. Just the balls themselves. We ordered twenty warm meatballs to share.

When they arrived we devoured them. They were made with beef and fresh herbs and garlic and tasted so good. So good, in fact that we ordered another round. Because it was so late the waiter warned they would be brought out froid. And that my friends, was our mistake in judgment. Cold meatballs are a dangerous thing. We continued to be reminded of this mistake for several days.

February 04, 2008

More Potholes than Pavement

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We arrived in Butare (Rwanda's college town) after a stunning drive through tea farms and the Nyungwe Forest in southwest Rwanda. It was so wonderful to pass through this beautiful mountain forest during daylight hours. There were more potholes than pavement, but I'm continually astounded by the consistently breathtaking effect the Rwanda countryside has on me. The highlight of the drive was seeing all the little golden monkeys clinging to the mossy cliffs. I'm not sure why they're called golden monkeys since they're black and white.

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We'll be in Butare for the next few days, filming at the Journalism School and the University Radio Station. We'll return to Kigali by mid-week. By then I'm sure we'll welcome our in-house high-speed internet with open arms.

Update from the Epicenter

Day 1

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Yesterday afternoon, as the second round of earthquake tremors rippled through Kigali, we got a call from the Associated Press. They needed footage of the earthquake's aftermath. We loaded up our camera gear, called our wonderful driver Papa Fred and began the long five hour journey to Cyangugu, the southwestern most area of Rwanda.

Here are some pictures from our drive from Kigali to Cyangugu:
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It was dark by the time we passed through the Nyungwe Forest so we didn't get to see the monkeys and chimpanzees in their home. Instead we bumped along the rocky road looking up at the cliffs above us, then down on the road before us to see the rocks and earth that had crumbled off.

We arrived in Cyangugu late and went straight to the Gihundwe Hospital. It's a typical 3rd world clinic -- dimly lit with overworked doctors and crowded rooms filled with metal beds and patients. The director of the hospital said that earlier in the day there were long lines of injured people along the concrete path outside the hospital. In the afternoon ten doctors had arrived from Kigali to help out so by the time we arrived they seemed to have moved the people with minor injuries through. We toured the hospital rooms. Injured people from neighboring villages lay on beds with broken arms, head gashes and broken legs. We were told 34 people had died in Rwanda due to the quake.

Photos at Gihundwe Hospital:

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We got to our accommodations, a Catholic retreat center up the hill from the beautiful Lake Kivu. For the duration of our drive we'd been receiving messages from our friends in Kigali that officials were warning to stay out of buildings between 8 pm and midnight. Apparently the were some warning issued based on a prediction of another earthquake. However, it was well after midnight when we arrived and finally sat down to edit the video footage. A minor tremor around 2 AM made me realize how uneasy I was about being so close to the epicenter. We jumped from the computer and lunged for the door frame, then laughed when the shaking didn't amount to much.

Day 2

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the view from our hotel in Cyangugu

We woke up at 6 AM and drove to some of the villages and churches that we had heard were especially devastated. A reporter for Catholic Radio told us that across the lake in Bukavu, Democratic Republic of Congo-- a much more densely populated area -- there were over 200 casualties.

Photos at some of the damaged churches we visited:

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Photos of villagers affected by the earthquake:

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As we drove down a rough dirt road back to Cyangugu, we passed a procession of mourners. They were returning to their village carrying a large woven basket that was serving as a casket for a victim's remains. Leading the group was a young man carrying a cross he had fashioned out of two twigs.

We're not going to cross the border into DRC to visit Bukavu, but I'm sure there are similar processions underway there as well.

We're now in an internet cafe battling the spotty internet service in an effort to upload the footage to the wire. After we're done we'll head to Butare to spend the next few nights filming journalism students.

February 03, 2008

My Very First Earthquake

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Cyangugu, in southwest Rwanda -- the epicenter of this morning's earthquake

Until this morning I've never experienced an earthquake.

At 9:43 AM, as I was planning how to spend my Sunday the dining room hutch, floors, and window panes began rattling. I had just woken to the distant chorus of church-goers singing hymns in kinyarwanda. I'm such a sucker for good Christian music -- bluegrass, gospel, and now kinyarwanda hymns. Hearing the soulful music is the only time when I actually entertain the idea of conversion. In a nation as Christian as this one, with a fast-growing shift away from Catholicism to evangelical churches, I was trying to decide which church invitation to accept. I could join a new friend at the Assembly of God church this afternoon, or I could accompany a women who heads one of the Kigali prisons to the Zionist church this evening. I'm looking forward to entering this world of Rwanda that I haven't seen yet. I plan to bring my mini-disc recorder and make a field recording of the music.

My thoughts were interrupted by the slight rocking of the ground beneath my feet. Last night at dinner at Restaurant Hellenique, I had been talking to some NGOs about efforts underway to harness the methane gas from the volcano outside of Goma to provide electricity for the region. So already volcanos and plates were on my mind. But I've never thought of this area as particularly proned to quakes.

The shaking we felt here pales to what people in the epicenter, 300 km away in Cyangugu felt.

The strangest thing to me is that it's now been nearly three hours since the earthquake, yet there are still no news reports -- only a mention on two geological survey sites. Registering at a magnitude of 6.1 on the Richter scale, it's hardly insubstantial. The area where it occurred is densely populated. Surely there's been a fair amount of damage.

**UPDATE

KIGALI (AFP) - At least 23 people died Sunday in western Rwanda after a strong earthquake shook several countries in Africa's Great Lakes region, Radio Rwanda reported.
[from Rwanda Radio]

For more about the cause of earthquakes in this region, read on.

On October 24, 2002 there was a earthquake with a magnitude of 6.2 in the same region.

At the time at least two people were killed and building walls were cracked at Goma. Several buildings were destroyed at Lwiro and Mugeri. Walls were also cracked at Bukavu, Congo (Kinshasa) and Kigali, Rawanda. This earthquake was followed by a magnitude 5.5 aftershock one hour later at 9:12 AM local time in Congo (Kinshasa).

This shallow earthquake occurred in the East African Rift System. The two sides of the rift are diverging at a rate of 3 - 5 millimeters per year (0.1 - 0.2 inches per year). The majority of earthquakes in the rift occur as the result of normal faulting.

The East African Rift zone is moderately seismic. Over the past 30 years an average of about five magnitude 4.5 or greater earthquakes per year occurred in the rift zone. Earthquake depths in this region range from the surface to depths of 28 miles (46 kilometers).

[from USGS]

February 01, 2008

My neighborhood from outerspace

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a satellite image of my Kigali neighborhood

I've started jogging. It's a way for me to learn my neighborhood, to kill time while waiting for the paperwork we need to film, and to blow off steam about some of the roadblocks we've hit.

Above is a satellite photo of my neighborhood in Kigali. I've circled the house where I live. The image doesn't accurately convey the steep incline that I must ascend to get to the large circle on the right side of the satellite image near the Rwandan Revenue Building. The loop is a favorite workout spot for the Chinese business people who live in the neighborhood. We pass large groups of them walking the loop every evening. I say hi in mandarin, ni hao ma-- the only word I know. My cameraman, who is much more proficient in the language usually asks them if they've seen our dog, Beaubie, who has inevitably run off since we don't have a leash for him.

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Beaubie, the dog who came with my house

Yesterday, we were jogging the loop and Beaubie was running around in the middle of the road. He's already been hit by a car once, so you'd think that he'd be more cautious around moving vehicles. But no. He ran towards a Jeep that was driving too fast. Luckily, the driver slammed on the breaks and avoided making impact with the poor mutt. But when Beaubie fell over he re-injured his leg. He hobbled home, whimpering in pain. I felt horrible. I was doubtful that we would be able to find a vet. But today we tracked one down. He gave us antibiotics and medication to reduce the swelling and pain. Already, Beaubie seems much happier. I'm going shopping for a leash, though it may be a few days before Beaubie is ready to run again.

Continue on to see another picture of Beaubie before the injury.

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